This test measures the volume of air that can pass through a given area of fabric at a given pressure. Akin to “breathability.” 

HOW IS IT DONE? 

A fabric is clamped over a test chamber. A fan is adjusted to bring the differential pressure to a set point (for calibration). The pressure reading is then recorded. This is repeated multiple times randomly across the fabric and the final value is the average of all readings.  

WHAT DO THE NUMBERS MEAN? 

Results are reported as a volume of air passing over a specific area per unit of time. It can be in US customary or metric.

Example: 

             US Customary: 5.5 ft3 /ft2 /min. (or C.F.M.)

             Metric: 27.9 L/m2 /sec.

- Values between 2 to 8 C.F.M. for cotton fabric may suggest it’s down proof. 

- Synthetic fabrics vary but generally below 2 is acceptable. 

WHY DO IT? 

It is helpful to know the “breathability” of fabrics filled with natural or synthetic materials. It may help in predicting downproofness, ease of care, and manufacturing requirements.

Recommended for bedding and garments.

WHAT IS IT?

This test measures the mass (weight) of fabric for a specific area.  

HOW IS IT DONE?

A square section of fabric is cut out. The exact dimensions are noted. It is then weighed on a balance to the nearest 0.001 gram. The dimensions and weight are then used to calculate the weight of the fabric per unit area.  

WHAT DO THE NUMBERS MEAN?

Results are reported in US customary (oz/yd2) or metric (g/m2) units.

Example: 

          US Customary: 5.6 oz/yd2

          Metric: 189.9 g/m2

- To convert from oz/yd2 to g/m2 multiply by 33.9. 

WHY DO IT?

This test is generally done to determine the weight of a fabric or to judge a finished product’s feel and bulk. Also good for acceptance testing when receiving bulk fabric from textile mills. For example, a mill may tell you a certain fabric is 6oz. per square yard, but in reality, the per square yard measurement might only be 4.5oz. Having checked the fabric weight, the discrepancy in quality is revealed. Recommended for bedding and garments.

WHAT IS IT?

This test quantifies the number of yarns (threads) that make up the warp and the weft (fill) of a woven or knit fabric.

HOW IS IT DONE?

A fabric is either examined under magnification to count the yarns or the yarns are physically removed from the fabric and counted manually. Typically most thread count tests can be performed under magnification.

WHAT DO THE NUMBERS MEAN?

A result will be given for both the warp and the weft. In some cases, a total thread count will be reported (warp plusweft). It may be reported as either threads per square inch or, in metric, threads per 10 cm.

Example:

          Metric:              Warp =472 threads/10cm

                                   Weft= 432 threads/10cm

          US Customary: Warp = 120 threads/inch

                                    Weft= 110 threads/inch

Recommended ranges vary depending on fabric type.

WHY DO IT?

This is a common test in most textile testing used to verify fabrics before acceptance from textile mills. Also useful in predicting the “softness” or “hand” of a fabric.

Recommended for all textiles.

WHAT IS IT?

This test measures the linear density of the warp and weft threads in a fabric. Basically, it measures how fine or coarse a thread is.  

HOW IS IT DONE?

A section of fabric is cut (roughly 20 cm x 20 cm) from a sample. Thirty warp and thirty weft yarns are carefully removed one by one. The threads are measured and then weighed. The weight, length and number of threads is then used to calculate the yarn size.

WHAT DO THE NUMBERS MEAN?

Results are reported in US customary or metric format.

Example:

             US Customary: 60.3 (Cotton Count)

             Metric: 9.8 Tex

- A smaller cotton count number denotes a             heavier yarn.

- Smaller tex units denote finer yarns.

- To convert from cotton count to tex: 590.5 ÷ cotton count.

WHY DO IT?

This test is generally done to determine the linear density of fibers used in textiles. It can help to predict the feel of a fabric. Also good for acceptance testing when receiving bulk fabric from textile mills.

Common yarn sizes include:

       Cotton Count: 40, 60, 80, 120

       Tex: 14, 10, 7, 5

Recommended for bedding and garments.

WHAT IS IT?

This test measures force required to rupture a fabric as it is being pulled apart.

HOW IS IT DONE?

A strip of fabric is clamped in the jaws of the strength test apparatus. The jaws move apart from each other at a constant speed while force is being measured. The final force measurement is recorded the moment the fabric ruptures.

WHAT DO THE NUMBERS MEAN?

The point at which the fabric ruptures is the tensile or breaking strength value.

Example:

             Metric: 275 N (newtons)

             US Customary: 61.8 lbf (pounds force)
 

WHY DO IT?

This test is useful in selecting the proper fabric for certain applications. Useful for acceptance testing (specifications of a fabric before it is accepted by the buyer).

Recommended for garments, bedding and upholstery.

WHAT IS IT?

This test measures a fabric’s resistance to the formation of pills (fuzz) or other surface changes due to rubbing.

HOW IS IT DONE?

A section of fabric is placed in a machine where it is rubbed against the same test fabric (Martindale method) or tumbled over a cork surface (Random Tumble method). It is rubbed 1000 times after which it is compared against standard references and rated.

WHAT DO THE NUMBERS MEAN?

Pilling is rated by the following scale:

                5 – No Pilling

                4 – Slight Pilling

                3 – Moderate Pilling

                2 – Severe Pilling

                1 – Very Severe Pilling

Ratings of 4 or 5 are preferred.

WHY DO IT?

This can be a good indicator of the durability and visual appeal of a fabric, especially fabrics that will be subject to rubbing stress.

Recommended for garments, bedding, and upholstery.

WHAT IS IT?

This test identifies the fibers used to make a fabric (e.g. cotton, polyester, wool, nylon, silk, etc.). It can also be used to identify fiber blends (e.g. cotton/polyester, etc.).

HOW IS IT DONE?

A fabric is either examined under magnification, burned, treated with special solutions or chemically separated.

Fibers are identified by distinct characteristics evident under magnification, observed during combustion, or revealed during chemical separation (certain fibers can be dissolved using certain chemicals).

WHAT DO THE NUMBERS MEAN?

Results are generally given as a percentage of the fiber(s) found during testing. It can be a single fiber (#1) or a blend of two or more fibers (#2).

Examples:

                    #1: 100% COTTON 

                                   or

                    #2: 50% COTTON, 50% POLYESTER

WHY DO IT?

This test is used to determine the fiber content in a fabric and is generally required for labeling. A label must state the ratio of multiple fibers. If a fabric is composed of only one fiber (e.g. “100% COTTON”) there can be no other fibers present.

Recommended for all textiles.

WHAT IS IT?

This test measures the strength of sewn seams in woven fabrics by applying a force perpendicular to the seam. In other words, the force required to pull apart a seam to the point of failure. 

HOW IS IT DONE?

A section of fabric with a sewn seam is placed into a tensile strength testing machine. The machine then pulls perpendicular to the seam until the seam ruptures. The force at the moment when the seam ruptures is recorded.  

WHAT DO THE NUMBERS MEAN?

Results are reported as the force measured the moment the seam ruptured/failed. Results will be given for both the warp and the weft. Recommended ranges vary depending on fabric type. 

Example:

          Metric: 200 N (newtons)

          US Customary: 45 lbf (pounds force)

Results will be given for both the warp and the weft. Recommended ranges vary depending on fabric type.

WHY DO IT?

Determine the strength and durability of a seam and fabric/seam combination. Some fabrics hold seams better than others and some seams are better than others.

Recommended for garments, bedding, and upholstery.

What Is It?

Fabric makes up the bulk of a filled garment or bedding product. Ensuring that the fabric can effectively contain plumage is essential to customer satisfaction.

How Is The Test  Performed?

A small test pillow is made from the sample fabric and filled with natural materials. The pillow is then sewn closed and all stitch lines are glued. It is then placed in the test apparatus which is intended to consistently simulate use of the finished product. At the conclusion of the test cycle the test pillow and apparatus are closely examined. All fibers and feathers that escaped are counted and a corresponding rating is assigned.

What Do The Results Mean?

Rotating Box Downproof Rating Scale:

Rating Number of Particles Escaped

5 <5 Particles
4 6 – 11 Particles
3 12 – 22 Particles
2 23 – 33 Particles
1 34+ Particles

Why Do It?

Fabric makes up the bulk of a filled garment or bedding product. Ensuring that the fabric can effectively contain plumage is essential to customer satisfaction.

How Can I Improve The Results?

A fabric can be made more downproof by several means:

Increase the thread count
Avoid patterns woven into the fabric (jacquard, damask)
Use treatments/finishes (ciré, DWR, calendaring, etc.)
Use high quality materials and techniques

WHY TEST FOR THIS?

Channeled Fabrics refer to fabrics that have been joined together, through processes of bonding, welding, weaving, etc., creating channels where fill material can be inserted. This test method is best suited to ensure that such fabrics can effectively contain plumage, which is an important factor for customer satisfaction. 

HOW IS THIS TEST PERFORMED?

A small test panel is constructed from the fabric. The fabric is cut and each channel is filled with filling material. The panel is then sewn closed and stitch lines are glued. It is then placed in the rotating tumbling box, together with 24 stoppers, for two 15-minute intervals. At the conclusion of each tumbling period, the panel, rotating box, and stoppers are closely examined for escaped particles. All particles are counted and a corresponding rating is given. 

WHAT DO THE RESULTS MEAN?

Rotating Box Downproof Rating Scale:

Rating          Number of Particles Escaped

5                  0–8 Particles

4                  9–16 Particles

3                  17 –24 Particles

2                  25 –32 Particles

1                  33+ Particles

The observed location of leakage (fabric, fused lines, or loose) is also reported.

CAN I USE THIS TEST METHOD WITH SYNTHETIC FILLING AND OTHER NON-DOWN FILLINGS?

Yes, IDFL can test for fillproofness with this method. The rating system and details for non-down fillings are under development, but we can test client samples under a discounted research rate.

WHAT IS IT?

This test evaluatesthe migration or leakage of fillingmaterialin finished products or prototype panels. All types of filling material can be tested including down, polyester, and other natural or synthetic fillings. Both the severity (amount ofleakage) and the source of leakage (seams, stitch lines, fabric) are evaluated.

HOW IS IT DONE?

An entire sample (jacket, vest, prototype, etc.) is placed in the rotating box downproof test machine.

The product is tested right side out for 30 minutes and then wrong side out for 30 minutes. After 15 and 30 minutes, the machine is stopped and the sample is examined to determine the source of leakage (fibers or feathers protruding from the fabric, stitch lines, or seams). Only fibers 4mm or longer are counted.

WHAT DO THE NUMBERS MEAN?

The results of leakage are then graded on a scale of 1 to 5, 1 being the worst and 5 being the best. The grading scale is dependent on the surface area and stitch density of the product.

The source or location of leakage (seams, stitch lines, fabric) is also reported.

WHY DO IT?

Leaking fibers or feathers reducecustomer satisfaction. Product fabric and sewing construction for jackets, vests, and other filled products must contain fill material with minimum leakage.

Other downproof or fillproof tests are designed to evaluate the fabric only. This test can help improve the performance of products by evaluating both source and the amount of leakage from the entire finished product.

WHY TEST FOR THIS?

Fabric makes up the bulk of a filled garment or bedding product. Ensuring that the fabric can effectively contain plumage is essential to customer satisfaction.

HOW IS THIS TEST PERFORMED?

A small test pillow is made from the sample fabric, filled with down and/or feathers and sewn closed. The pillow is then placed in a plastic bag to contain any particles that may escape during the test. It is clamped into the machine so that it rubs against itself for a set number of rotations. At the conclusion of the test cycle, the test pillow and plastic bag are closely examined. All fibers and feathers that escaped are counted and reported. This is performed for the warp and weft directions of the fabric.

WHAT DO THE RESULTS MEAN?

The number of particles that escaped is reported for the warp and weft.

Example:

           Warp:8 particles

           Weft:5 particles

HOW CAN I IMPROVE THE RESULTS?

Fabric can be made more downproof by several means:

            - Increase the thread count

            - Avoid patterns woven into the fabric (jacquard, damask)

            - Use treatments/finishes (ciré, DWR, calendaring, etc.)

            - Use high-quality materials and techniques