Textile Testing

Textile Testing and Quality Assurance

The form for submitting textile samples can be found here.

Services

IDFL provides many textile quality assurance services including testing bulk fabric and finished products, collecting samples from factories or retail stores and inspecting finished products. Services can be performed same-day for an additional fee.

Tests

  • fABRIC

  • DOWNPROOF

Air Permeability

WHAT IS IT? 

This test measures the volume of air that can pass through a given area of fabric at a given pressure. Akin to “breathability.” 

HOW IS IT DONE? 

A fabric is clamped over a test chamber. A fan is adjusted to bring the differential pressure to a set point (for calibration). The pressure reading is then recorded. This is repeated multiple times randomly across the fabric and the final value is the average of all readings.  

WHAT DO THE NUMBERS MEAN? 

Results are reported as a volume of air passing over a specific area per unit of time. It can be in US customary or metric.

Example: 

             US Customary: 5.5 ft3 /ft2 /min. (or C.F.M.)

             Metric: 27.9 L/m2 /sec.


- Values between 2 to 8 C.F.M. for cotton fabric may suggest it’s down proof. 

- Synthetic fabrics vary but generally below 2 is acceptable. 


WHY DO IT? 

It is helpful to know the “breathability” of fabrics filled with natural or synthetic materials. It may help in predicting downproofness, ease of care, and manufacturing requirements.

Recommended for bedding and garments.

Fabric Weight

WHAT IS IT?

This test measures the mass (weight) of fabric for a specific area.  

HOW IS IT DONE?

A square section of fabric is cut out. The exact dimensions are noted. It is then weighed on a balance to the nearest 0.001 gram. The dimensions and weight are then used to calculate the weight of the fabric per unit area.  

WHAT DO THE NUMBERS MEAN?

Results are reported in US customary (oz/yd2) or metric (g/m2) units.

Example: 

          US Customary: 5.6 oz/yd2

          Metric: 189.9 g/m2

- To convert from oz/yd2 to g/m2 multiply by 33.9. 

WHY DO IT?

This test is generally done to determine the weight of a fabric or to judge a finished product’s feel and bulk. Also good for acceptance testing when receiving bulk fabric from textile mills. For example, a mill may tell you a certain fabric is 6oz. per square yard, but in reality, the per square yard measurement might only be 4.5oz. Having checked the fabric weight, the discrepancy in quality is revealed. Recommended for bedding and garments.

Thread Count

WHAT IS IT?

This test quantifies the number of yarns (threads) that make up the warp and the weft (fill) of a woven or knit fabric.

HOW IS IT DONE?

A fabric is either examined under magnification to count the yarns or the yarns are physically removed from the fabric and counted manually. Typically most thread count tests can be performed under magnification.

WHAT DO THE NUMBERS MEAN?

A result will be given for both the warp and the weft. In some cases, a total thread count will be reported (warp plusweft). It may be reported as either threads per square inch or, in metric, threads per 10 cm.

Example:


          Metric:              Warp =472 threads/10cm

                                   Weft= 432 threads/10cm

          US Customary: Warp = 120 threads/inch

                                    Weft= 110 threads/inch

Recommended ranges vary depending on fabric type.

WHY DO IT?

This is a common test in most textile testing used to verify fabrics before acceptance from textile mills. Also useful in predicting the “softness” or “hand” of a fabric.

Recommended for all textiles.

Yarn Size

WHAT IS IT?

This test measures the linear density of the warp and weft threads in a fabric. Basically, it measures how fine or coarse a thread is.  

HOW IS IT DONE?

A section of fabric is cut (roughly 20 cm x 20 cm) from a sample. Thirty warp and thirty weft yarns are carefully removed one by one. The threads are measured and then weighed. The weight, length and number of threads is then used to calculate the yarn size.

WHAT DO THE NUMBERS MEAN?

Results are reported in US customary or metric format.

Example:

             US Customary: 60.3 (Cotton Count)

             Metric: 9.8 Tex

- A smaller cotton count number denotes a             heavier yarn.

- Smaller tex units denote finer yarns.

- To convert from cotton count to tex: 590.5 ÷ cotton count.

WHY DO IT?

This test is generally done to determine the linear density of fibers used in textiles. It can help to predict the feel of a fabric. Also good for acceptance testing when receiving bulk fabric from textile mills.

Common yarn sizes include:

       Cotton Count: 40, 60, 80, 120

       Tex: 14, 10, 7, 5

Recommended for bedding and garments.

Tensile Strength

WHAT IS IT?

This test measures force required to rupture a fabric as it is being pulled apart.

HOW IS IT DONE?

A strip of fabric is clamped in the jaws of the strength test apparatus. The jaws move apart from each other at a constant speed while force is being measured. The final force measurement is recorded the moment the fabric ruptures.

WHAT DO THE NUMBERS MEAN?

The point at which the fabric ruptures is the tensile or breaking strength value.

Example:

             Metric: 275 N (newtons)

             US Customary: 61.8 lbf (pounds force)
 

WHY DO IT?

This test is useful in selecting the proper fabric for certain applications. Useful for acceptance testing (specifications of a fabric before it is accepted by the buyer).

Recommended for garments, bedding and upholstery.

Pilling Resistance

WHAT IS IT?

This test measures a fabric’s resistance to the formation of pills (fuzz) or other surface changes due to rubbing.

HOW IS IT DONE?

A section of fabric is placed in a machine where it is rubbed against the same test fabric (Martindale method) or tumbled over a cork surface (Random Tumble method). It is rubbed 1000 times after which it is compared against standard references and rated.

WHAT DO THE NUMBERS MEAN?

Pilling is rated by the following scale:

                5 – No Pilling

                4 – Slight Pilling

                3 – Moderate Pilling

                2 – Severe Pilling

                1 – Very Severe Pilling

Ratings of 4 or 5 are preferred.

WHY DO IT?

This can be a good indicator of the durability and visual appeal of a fabric, especially fabrics that will be subject to rubbing stress.

Recommended for garments, bedding, and upholstery.

Fiber Identification

WHAT IS IT?

This test identifies the fibers used to make a fabric (e.g. cotton, polyester, wool, nylon, silk, etc.). It can also be used to identify fiber blends (e.g. cotton/polyester, etc.).

HOW IS IT DONE?

A fabric is either examined under magnification, burned, treated with special solutions or chemically separated.

Fibers are identified by distinct characteristics evident under magnification, observed during combustion, or revealed during chemical separation (certain fibers can be dissolved using certain chemicals).

WHAT DO THE NUMBERS MEAN?

Results are generally given as a percentage of the fiber(s) found during testing. It can be a single fiber (#1) or a blend of two or more fibers (#2).

Examples:

                    #1: 100% COTTON 

                                   or

                    #2: 50% COTTON, 50% POLYESTER

WHY DO IT?


This test is used to determine the fiber content in a fabric and is generally required for labeling. A label must state the ratio of multiple fibers. If a fabric is composed of only one fiber (e.g. “100% COTTON”) there can be no other fibers present.

Recommended for all textiles.

Seam Strength

WHAT IS IT?

This test measures the strength of sewn seams in woven fabrics by applying a force perpendicular to the seam. In other words, the force required to pull apart a seam to the point of failure. 

HOW IS IT DONE?

A section of fabric with a sewn seam is placed into a tensile strength testing machine. The machine then pulls perpendicular to the seam until the seam ruptures. The force at the moment when the seam ruptures is recorded.  

WHAT DO THE NUMBERS MEAN?

Results are reported as the force measured the moment the seam ruptured/failed. Results will be given for both the warp and the weft. Recommended ranges vary depending on fabric type. 

Example:

          Metric: 200 N (newtons)

          US Customary: 45 lbf (pounds force)

Results will be given for both the warp and the weft. Recommended ranges vary depending on fabric type.

WHY DO IT?

Determine the strength and durability of a seam and fabric/seam combination. Some fabrics hold seams better than others and some seams are better than others.

Recommended for garments, bedding, and upholstery.

Standards

IDFL tests textiles using the major global standards including EN (Europe), ASTM (North America), JIS (Japan), AATCC (North America), IDFL (Global), ISO (Global).

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